Paris - Random Foodie Delights

When I planned my trip to Paris it was centred around food (of course!) and I did have quite a few places that were must do's on my list.  There were also a few random choices.  I'm not going to review each restaurant (as it is to far in the past to remember and I wasn't so focussed on foodie notes and details as I am now (it's a growing process this food blog thing!))

Early morning brekkie before my Champagne tour (more on that another time) found me at a random little cafe at my meeting point for the tour..  It was still dark outstide and I was cold.  This looked good, so Croque Monsieur, basically a grilled ham and cheese sandwich, however the cheese is on the outside and is typically Emmemntal or Gruyere cheese.  This was great.  Cheesy, crunchy and salty goodness.  Just what I needed to line the stomach before a day of drinking champagne. 

 

Another morning had me at Angelina which is well know for its  Hot Chocolate L'Afrique, old fashioned hot chocolate with a jut of whipped cream and who could refuse a palmier to go along with it.

 

 

Okay, I couldn't resist having a slap up chinese meal with sweet and sour pork with fried rice.  Living in Dubai this was one dish that I craved (which is odd because it's a rare choice for me anyway!)

 

Another meal of a chef salad and entrecote and frites, which is basically french steak and chips.  Entrecote is typically rib, rib-eye or scotch fillet.

 



 

Moules - buckets of mussels with white wine and onions..  Oh so good!  mopped up with fresh slabs of baguettes

 

A typical french breakfast of cafe au lait, fresh orange juice, baguette, jam, butter and a crossiant.  No better way to wake up in Paris (well actually there is but that is not open to discussion on here! hahah)

Laduree famous for their pastries and macaroons

 

 

A little neighbourhood restaurant (in the Marais) offering a 3 course prix fixe menu at a very reasonable price had me dining there one night after an exhausting day of exploring Paris on foot. 

I started off with the pork terraine, which was a country style (ie chunky) slab of porky delight.

 

Followed by a pot of 'farmhouse' cassulet which was full of beans, confit of duck, rustic sausage and it was wonderfully comforting on a cold winters night.

 

Followed by floating islands.  Meringue floating on creme anglaise. mmmm..

 

 

A bit to cold to be sitting alfresco but it's warm and toasty inside!  I was starting to feel like a Parisian.

 

Another day of exploring took me to a the underground cemetrys.  2km of tunnels housing old bones from hundreds of year old cemetries. It was amazing until I had the misfortune of tripping over and seeing me face plant into a pile of bones that were a couple of hundred years old. I was in a whole world of hurt. After being 'rescued' by some other explorers and hobbled out of the tunnel and up 83 steps I was beyond pain.  I felt humilated and embarrassed, so ignoring the pain I did what I do best, head off in search of markets and food! I hobbled over to the 14th to the markets there.

 

Lots of fresh seafood

Take home ready meals - paella

 

and a lots of cheese stalls and shops!  Cheese lovers paradise!

 

I purchased truffle cheese, pate, baugettes, strawberries and headed to the Eiffel Tower. ....

 

 

I went to the top and the view was amazing, although the day was a little overcast and very cold up there

 

When I finally got myself back to my guesthouse I was in another world of pain and I stupidly took my shoe off and by the time dinner rolled around my ankle and foot was the size of a watermelon and black and blue as an eggplant. I was in big trouble, so I hobbled across the street from my guesthouse to another little neighbourhood restaurant called Les Bourgesses and nothing a but bottle of wine and a delicious meal could take the pain away (at least for a moment).  The rest of the trip was another story.

 

I settled myself in for the night and they were kind enough to give me a bag of ice to put on my ankle!

Bougognes Pinot Noir 2007

A bottle of red to myself (medicianal purposes only :))

 

 

Onion Soup (note the omitting of 'French' ,considering we are in France)

 

Thick with onion and gooey cheese it was comfort in a bowl.

 

Beau Magnet au Canard avec Fruits de Bois (Duck in berry sauce)

This dish was lovely.  The sweet fruity sauce cut through the fattiness of the duck and the skin and fat was rendered perfectly.  Very delicious.

Creme brulee

 

I love the crack of that caramelised shell and the rich eggy custard. Very few dessert excite me but creme brulee does!

 

I heart Paris!

 

 



Paris - The gourmet and the boutique

*I have updated and revised this post slightly because I found a heap of more photos (which I had a feeling I was missing some when originally writing this post!). Enjoy.

 

Way back when I first went travelling circa 1998, I ashamedly admit that I did Europe on a bus full of 18 - 30 something's either on a backpackers trip, a gap year, a college break trip or just looking to see as much as you can in a small amount of time through a hangover.  The aim for many was partying all night and sleeping on the bus between stops.  I wasn't nearly that bad but I know I could have done better, but I was younger and 'naive' (okay maybe not naive). Yes I had a fantastic time and I loved it, but it did take a year of or so living in London to realise that I probably missed out on a TON of stuff and not the way I want to travel ever again.  My style of travelling and goals changed over the years and I either became a 'solo' traveller or at least if I was going to do a tour it would be grassroots travelling and supporting local communities (local transport, guesthouses and local guides etc...giving back to the community).  Also over the years my passion for food and my thirst for knowledge on all things food has developed from that first European jaunt.

 

Anyway, while I was living in Dubai (there's an oxymoron right there re grassroots) circa 2009 I managed to get back to Paris for a week (with a few days at Disneyland Paris but that's another post!) and I did it the way I wanted to (it also helped that I had a little more money (a tad more) than I did back in my early 20's as a backpacker!)

 

I spent my days eating and drinking my way around Paris and I loved every minute of it.  Needless to say, I am desperate to go back and explore France more...one day!  and I need to brush up on my 4 years of French from school....My bucket list is long!

 

I stayed in the Marais - a great little pocket of Paris.

 

 

 

One of the areas that I did explore was Place de la Madeleine which is known for its gourmet/ boutique food shops.  I was in for a treat (but my wallet wasn't) :).

 

Here are a few places I visited.

 

Hediard

 

A gourmet heaven. Market style.

 

 

 

Hediard

 

 

 

La Maison de la Truffe (The Truffle House) 

 

 

  

 

 

Truffles!

 

That's fungus gold right there at over 2,000 euros per kilo.  I couldn't afford to buy any, nor did I eat in the restaurant (EPIC fail on my part) but I did however get to taste the elusive truffe in a meal I had later in the week. 

 

Fauchon with its black and hot pink packaging it screams chic.....gourmet grocery store at premium prices! Think David Jones Food Hall (but pricier and more upscale!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Ham of the Gods

 

but they do have iberico ham also known as pata negra. The black hoofed pigs are raised mainly on roots and acorns and are the prize ham of Spain.

I popped into Maille Mustard* shop and ordered my own freshly poured from a tap (think beer taps!) into a pottery pot, corked and all.

Mustard on tap!

the mustard wall

* You can now buy Maille mustard at the grocery store, but there nothing like fresh mustard from a tap, and they have all sorts of other flavoured mustards too.

Mariage Freres - Stepping into this quaint tea shop, the smell of a variety of tea leaves wafted through the air.  I felt like was in an old apothecary shop.   which was wall to wall tins of fantastic blends of tea.  You can sample teas before buying. oh and there is a museum of all things tea related!

It's a tea tease

 

Other stores that I popped into around Paris was fromage shops (wonderful cheeses galore) which are found everywhere along with bakeries, with the glorious, wonderful smell of fresh bread and the markets were full of great fresh produce. 

cheese heaven

 

These strawberries were sweet and juicy and had the taste of summer, there were some strawberries at the market that were as big as my palm but sweet and juicy too!

fresh strawberries

 

 

 

Even though Dubai had a Paul's I did indulge in a fresh raspberry tart (and the raspberries haven't been flown in to make them!) and a macaroon.

chocolate macaroon

 

raspberry tart
 

I was in heaven when I visited Pierre Herme, who is the Zumbo equivalent for macaroons.  These little babies cost the earth but worth every little bite and crumb!  I got to the shop just as they were about to close and I was whisked behind the curtain (yes a curtain) which signals the shop has closed but there are a few customers still in the shop. I was the last one allowed in (which made up for the Notre Dame debacle the day before when I was cut off from the end of the line at closing time, literally the red rope was put in front of me...seriously!)  Anyway, here at Pierre Herme, I felt like I was given the VIP treatment!  This is macaroon mecca!

 

 

trays of macaroons

 

dessert heaven

 

 

macaroon mecca

Paris is a food lovers delight and I didn't even scratch the surface.  There is so much to explore, taste and discover.  More posts to come on champagne houses and restaurant meals and more foodie delights!

July Travel Photo of the Month - Tulips in Prince Edward Island

Picking a photo from circa 2004 on a road trip on the East Coast of Canada.  Driving through Prince Edward Island we came across a field of tulips....how could I not resist?

 

Aquavivas @ Darlinghurst

I recently found out that one of the guys that I have been working for for the past few months has a little secret...a dirty little secret......and he had been holding out on us!  He is a singer/songwriter/ guitar player in his spare time (he also loves to cook as a side note:)).  Woah, how come we didn't know this?  Well I am now in on the secret...and he emailed me a couple of days ago telling me he had a small gig at Aquavivas in Darlinghurst.  Wanting to support him with his hobby, I was on it like a kid with candy (and dare I say many adults hahaha) and I found myself at this little neighbourhood gem mid week.  

Aquavivas is in the little pocket of restaurants along Stanley Street, opened last year and they are making a name for themselves (in a good way!)! The Fernandes boys own this little bar cum restaurant which is in a two storey terrace with lots of dark wood, dark navy blue walls and velvet covered comfy chairs.  The back door opens out onto a long terrace and upstairs there is a dining room with lounges and low tables.  It is softly lit with tea light candles scattered around the low tables. Their love of music shines through too with musical instruments scattered throughout. The bar is cozy and intimate, perfect for small groups , there is even the 'Mini Mansion' which is a table for two under the stairs with the option to curtain off the intimate area, perfect for a romantic rendezvous.

As for the food, they serve up delicious modern Australian dishes with a Portuguese influence and are all designed to share.  Dishes with quirky names like 'chickpea planks' (chickpea chips), 'juvenile cephalopods' (calamari) and 'controversial watermelon' (cured watermelon) will have you smiling and salivating.  There is also happy hour cocktails or in our case, a jug of Pimm's along with charcuterie boards, cheese boards ($20) or serves of chicken wings.

The menu appears to be seasonal and there are far to many dishes for me to choose tonight...so we decide on a charcuterie board along with a jug of Pimm's and settle in before Jay starts his set.

The boys really go out of their way to let you know what's on the plate and are eager to please, they are enthusiastic and you can see their passion and excitement.....me, not only am I drooling over the plate,  I am also drooling over the accent!   

The Pimm's is refreshing and minty

Pimm's

 

We are presented with a long tile full of house cured bresola, pickled onion and cabbage, a wonderfully smooth chicken liver parfait, a few shards of 'hydro pig' (crackling dusted with paprika) and a big slice of rabbit and quince terrine served with house made ciabatta and crackers laced with caraway.  This is heaven on a slab! 

Charcuterie Board

ciabatta, rabbit and quince terrine, house cured bresola, pickled onion and cabbage, hydro pigs, chicken liver parfait and crackers with caraway seeds.

I think I moaned with the first mouthful of chicken liver parfait and I know I was smiling with every bite of the rabbit terrine and those hydro pig's...are crunchy bites of deliciousness and I could eat just a bowl full of those (and they sell them too!).  I would highly recommend one of these boards - to share or not!  The cheese board look pretty inviting to, but that was not ours to touch!

As for Jay?  His set went fantastic and I loved listening to him play and sing..  His voice is very Jeff Buckley and his sound is very Blue/Folksy. Guitar, harmonica and a great voice. I've asked him for a signed album!  Lawyer by day.....singer by night.....I can dig it!

I nicked a chickpea chip off Jay's plate as I was leaving, for research purposes of course!  and it was crunchy on the outside and creamy on the inside, dipped in a garlicy dip and it's a winner!

I'll be back boys.....and I'm bringing some friends..........

Aquavivas
www.aquavivas.com
77 Stanley Street, Darlinghurst
Phone: +61 2 9380 7639
aquavivasonstanley@gmail.com

My Plate: Peppermint Crisp Pie

peppermint crisp pie

 

It's been an epic weekend.  Birthday celebrations saw me at the Good Food and Wine Show on Saturday with some close friends, which then continued on into the night with a girls night in, with copious amounts of wine and good food, not to mention the fantastic group of girlfriends I am blessed with.

Sunday dawned a bit fuzzy and hazy (and I'm not talking about the weather) and it was an afternoon of family gatherings to celebrate the birthday and catch up with some family.  The original menu that I had planned didn't happen because the weekend ended up being much busier than originally planned, but I did do this dessert!

Peppermint Crisp Pie.  It's an Apples for Jam recipe by Tessa Kiros.  I have adapted the recipe to accommodate Australian 'equivalent' products and slight changes in measurements.  You will need to make the dulce de leche prior to making the dessert.  You will need at least 4-5 hours to make the caramel and let it cool.

Ingredients

1.5 packets of Marie biscuits ( you may not need all the crumbs)
150g butter, melted
1 tin of dulce de leche (sweetened condensed milk boiled)
whipped cream
3 peppermint crisp bars, crushed (or grated peppermint chocolate)

Method

Take labels off the tins. Place unopened tin of sweetened condensed milk into a saucepan and cover with water (at least an inch above the can).  I also placed a clean tea towel into the saucepan around the tin to keep it from bouncing around  (I did 3 tins to make extra caramel and used 2 tea towels).  Bring to a boil and then turn down to simmer for at least 3 hours.  Ensure water level does not drop below the tops of the tins (or may have have a caramel explosion in your kitchen).  Turn off and let the tin cool down. DO NOT OPEN WHILE HOT!*

Crush biscuits in a blender to make a crumb.  Place in a bowl and pour in melted butter.  Mix together.

Pack crumbs into pie tin (20cm pie tin) and pack down to make a crust.  Place in fridge to set until ready to serve.

Place pie crust on a plate, top with dulce de leche, whipped cream and sprinkle the crushed peppermint crisp (or grated peppermint chocolate) over the top.

As I hadn't made dulce de leche before, I was super impressed with myself when I opened the tin and saw the deep sweet, fudgy caramel.  This is a super easy dessert (once you have the caramel made) and I think it was the crispy peppermint shards on top that gave it the wow factor. 
* You can store unopened tins of caramel in the fridge or pantry.  I have kept some in a container in the fridge to have sneaky spoonful or two.  It's sinful but oh so delicious!